Balayage vs Highlights: Which Is Right for You?

This is probably the question I hear the most at my studio in Paisley. Someone sits down, shows me a photo on their phone, and asks - "is this balayage or highlights?" Half the time, even the photo they're showing me is a mix of both.

After 12 years of doing both techniques almost daily, here's my honest take on how they compare - and how I help clients decide which one is right for them.

What Is Balayage?

Balayage is a French word meaning "to sweep." It's a freehand colouring technique where colour is hand-painted onto the surface of the hair. There are no foils involved - instead, the colour is applied in sweeping strokes, concentrating more product towards the ends and leaving the roots softer and more natural.

The result is a graduated, sun-kissed effect that looks like your hair has been naturally lightened over a long summer. Because the colour is blended rather than uniform, regrowth is much softer and less obvious than with traditional highlights.

What Are Highlights?

Highlights (often called foils) use a more structured approach. Sections of hair are woven out, colour is applied, and the hair is wrapped in foil to process. This creates a more uniform, defined contrast between the coloured strands and your natural base colour.

Foil highlights can be placed as a full head, half head, or in a targeted area like the face frame. They tend to start closer to the root, which gives a brighter, more noticeable result from the outset.

Key Differences at a Glance

Which One Suits Your Lifestyle?

Choose Balayage If You Want Low Maintenance

Balayage is ideal if you don't want to be in the salon every few weeks. Because the colour blends naturally from the mid-lengths to the ends, there's no harsh regrowth line. Most of my balayage clients come back every three to four months, which makes it a more cost-effective option over the course of a year. I have one regular client who comes in every 14 weeks like clockwork and her colour still looks fresh at every visit - that's the beauty of a well-placed balayage.

Choose Highlights If You Want Maximum Impact

If you love a bright, polished look with lots of contrast, highlights are the way to go. Full head foils give even coverage and a more dramatic transformation. They're also great if you want to go significantly lighter across your whole head. I find foils work particularly well for clients with finer hair - you can get really precise placement that creates the illusion of thicker, fuller hair.

Not Sure? You Can Combine Both

This is actually what I end up doing for a lot of clients, and it's become one of my favourite things to do. A balayage through the lengths with some fine face-framing foils gives a beautiful, natural finish with a little extra brightness where it matters most. It's the approach I'd recommend if you've been going back and forth between the two - we can work out the exact blend during your consultation.

What to Consider Before Your Appointment

• Your natural hair colour: Balayage tends to look more natural on brunettes, while foils can work well on any base colour.
• Hair condition: Both techniques use lightener, so healthy hair holds colour better. An Olaplex treatment can be added to protect hair during the process.
• Your schedule: If you're busy and prefer fewer salon visits, balayage is the lower-maintenance choice.
• Your budget: While the per-appointment cost is similar, balayage works out cheaper annually because of the longer intervals between visits.

How It Works at Locks of Love

Every colour appointment at Locks of Love begins with a thorough consultation. I'll assess your hair type, condition, and what you're hoping to achieve. Whether you choose balayage, foils, or a combination, I use premium Osmo Ikon and Yellow Professional colour products to ensure vibrant, long-lasting results.

Because Locks of Love is a private, one-to-one studio, your appointment time is dedicated entirely to you. There's no rushing, no distractions - just focused care in a calm, relaxing space. If you'd like to know more about what that experience is actually like, I wrote about why one-to-one hairdressing matters in a recent post.

Frequently Asked Questions